Sustainability is a big deal in the Bay Area and definitely with me. But when you have to cut down whole trees for it and then toss them out when they start to rot, you end up wasting resources. It is clear that Dominique Crenn knows how to make a good first impression. See that fungus growing out of that tree trunk? Here is where I started having a huge problem with presentation. The “ash” was actually crumbled roasted vegetables – I asked and was told that no vegetables were burned to a crisp in the preparation of this palate cleanser. This block of coal came with a warning too, but instead of apple cider, my mouth was greeted by a gush of liquid quince. Run to your local Asian store and grab your nori rice crackers NOW! Palate cleanser: Roasted quince with “ash” ![]() If it could be reproduced and tidied up a tad, it would be an impressive appetizer for a chic party. I would have loved to take home a bag of the crackers! The bite was an exploration of the different tastes: Unlike the first fish course, which had a sweet accompaniment, the mackerel was paired with a salty cracker and tart, slightly vinegary umeboshi pieces. However, it was my favorite course of the night. I do have a thing about ingredients and garnishes that serve no purpose. Yes, there are lots and lots of things on that cracker. Here to take the palate in a totally different direction was the mackerel with charred skin on a nori rice cracker and topped with umeboshi (pickled plum), among other things. Each component held its own, but came together in a wonderful way – like Waldorf salad. The combined flavor was rich without being heavy, complex without being confusing. The most exciting part of the carrot course was the coconut powder. Brilliant does not begin to describe the taste of the carrot, spicy “tea,” and coconut together. A baby carrot was buried under a cloud of aloe vera (in other words, it didn’t taste like anything) in what the server (a different one) referred to as a “tea” of rutabaga and carrot that had been steeped in spices. The kitchen more than made up for their misstep with this gorgeous autumn-colored gem. Carrot in a “tea” of rutabaga and carrot with coconut and aloe vera I’d have preferred channeling that energy into punching up the flavor of the wheatgrass. ![]() That’s great – you’ve thought about all of these great details, but if they don’t serve any purpose, you’ve wasted energy and time creating these things. It’s a classic case of being a little too eager to impress. It was a real disappointment because it unfortunately did not taste like anything at all. That little flap of clear, colorless gel was a sake and elderflower gelée. The oyster poached in its own liquid was topped with juniper foam and sat in a pool of wheatgrass juice. The first real misstep of the night occurred in this next dish. They, like this lovely whole wheat roll, are extremely delicious, but served a more important role of cleansing my palate of the bright fruitiness that kicked off the meal. I really liked that Atelier Crenn did not avail to us a bottomless basket of bread rolls. Whole wheat roll with toasted oats and brown rice The beet broth was delicious on its own and, in my opinion, unnecessary, but may have been there for aesthetic value… a recurring idea throughout the meal. ![]() It was clear already that Chef Dominique is a master (mistress?) of unexpected flavor pairings. ![]() The firm, rich hamachi was accompanied by a quenelle of light, refreshing apple celery sorbet. My companion and I were not disappointed. That little morsel set the bar pretty high for what to expect. The contrasting textures of hard chocolate, liquid cider, and cassis gel was so fun and playful – the gastronomic equivalent of running out of the hot tub, jumping into the cold swimming pool, and then rushing back into the hot tub. On breaking the white chocolate shell, liquid apple cider gushed out. Our server Kiley warned us about this unassuming white nugget: “Make sure you close your mouth completely around it and your lips are sealed before you bite into it.” Atelier Crenn seemed an unlikely place for the kind of the tasting menu we were in for. The interior was a little like an upscale forest cabin: lots of wood, stone, plants, and an unmistakable glow. The warm and inviting atmosphere was a welcome one on that chilly November night. The marriage of food and art blessed by French chef Dominique Crenn (who was friendly and relaxed when she stopped by to chat) was truly a treat for all the senses. Two-Michelin Star Atelier Crenn is the big talk of the town, and understandably so. Grab yourself a cup of coffee and brace yourself, or you can scroll all the way to the end of this post for my verdict.) (WARNING: My review is very long and detailed. If you want to go for an exhilarating culinary adventure, I highly recommend Atelier Crenn.
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